|Posted by tlhsny on April 4, 2015 at 8:35 AM||comments (4)|
One of the scariest moments for a pet owner is when a family dog or cat runs away. They begin to search, stopping to ask neighbors if they have seen the pet, and sharing the pet's photo and information on Facebook pages.
They will hopefully contact their local Animal Shelter or Animal Control Officer to find out if anyone has called about their missing pet, and that is when the all important question is asked:
"Was your pet wearing any ID tags? Is it microchipped?"
The distraught owner realizes they should have had a name tag made. Or put the rabies tag on the pet's collar that the Vet gave them. Or paid a little extra money during that last Vet visit to have the pet microchipped.
Sadly, millions of unidentified dogs and cats are brought to animal shelters as strays across the country each year. Only 15% of these unidentified animals ever get to see their owners again.
Why is that? The answer is simple. These animals were not wearing any type of tag and were not microchipped.
The Tri-Lakes Humane Society takes in ~200-300 stray animals annually. 60-70% of these animals are not wearing any type of tags when they are brought in. Even fewer are microchipped. Both myself and the Shelter Staff are left to guess whom may own the dog or cat, and forced to wait to be contacted by the owner. For most of these stray dogs and cats, owners are never found and they are left unclaimed and homeless.
There are simple ways to help your pet have the chance to see you again if they ever run away and go missing:
The Tri-Lakes Humane Society can provide you with a FREE ID tag for your pet! We also have collars and harnesses available! Contact our office at 891-0017, Email: [email protected],com, or stop by our facility. A list of Vets that provide microchipping can also be provided.
Your furry friends want to be by your side, safe and happy.
Don't wait before it's too late! Get a tag and chip for your pet.
Lena Bombard, TLHS Manager & Animal/Dog Control Officer
|Posted by tlhsny on August 6, 2012 at 11:50 AM||comments (0)|
Everyone has to agree, it's been a truly HOT summer so far. As pet owner's, it's our responsibility to keep our pets safe and cool when the heat soars outdoors. Each year, thousands animals suffer and die from being left outdoors in the direct sun/heat, and from having access to poisonous plants, or contaminated water. The same holds true for animals that are left inside vehicles, or that are over exercised.
Here are some Summer Safety tips to keep your pets happy, healthy and safe:
Move the animal into the shade or an air-conditioned area.
Apply ice packs or cold towels to her head, neck, and chest or immerse her in cool (not cold) water.
Let her drink small amounts of cool water or lick ice cubes.
Take her directly to a veterinarian.
If you ever see an animal in distress inside a vehicle, outdoors without adequate shelter, or running loose, contact your local Police Department, Humane Society or Animal Shelter. You can help save these animals by stepping up to make that crucial phone call and report.
|Posted by tlhsny on January 20, 2012 at 4:05 PM||comments (0)|
With winter in full swing in Northern NY, we would like to offer a few simple tips to keeping your beloved pets safe and happy:
1. Do not leave dogs or cats outdoors in the cold, they are much safer indoors. When the temperature drops, the windchill can threaten an animal's life. They can get hypothermia just like humans, and this is especially true of short haired pets. Elderly and young pets are vulnerable as well, and should not be left outside in the cold unsupervised. Pets can also become wet from sitting in the snow which can cause hypothermia to set in much faster. Most pets would much rather have a nice comfy and warm bed inside to curl up on then having to sit out in the cold.
2. If you have a pet that likes to spend a lot of time outdoors, even in winter, you need to provide them with a shelter. You can purchase, or build, a dog or cat house that will fit the requirements for adequate escape from the elements. The pet shelter should be dry, insulated, and have a waterproof roof and floor. To prevent cold drafts, you should make sure the shelter is large enough for the pet to sit and lie down, but small enough to trap the pet's body heat. You should use straw, shavings or other removable dry bedding to line the shelter. The doorway to the shelter can be covered with waterproof plastic or a piece of tarp to keep the wind from entering.
Here is a link to a cool outdoor cat shelter that you can easily make: http://www.erubbermaid.com/roughneck-homes?mid=57
3. In the winter months, pets need more food and water, as keeping warm takes a lot of energy. This is very important for outdoor pets. You should routinely check food and water dishes to make certain they have fresh, unfrozen water and food. Plastic dishes are better in the winter as pet's can freeze their tongues to metal.
4. Be careful about checking under and in your vehicle's engine. Small animals like cats have been known to climb into car engine areas seeking out the warmth. To avoid injuring a possible animal under your car, give a few good bangs on your hood to scare them out.
5. Avoid puddles and antifreeze. Antifreeze is a deadly poison, however animals like the sweet taste it has. If you happen to spill antifreeze, make sure you clean it up and store the bottles out of reach of pets. Do not let your pets drink from puddles that form near your home, as they may contain harmful chemicals.
6. Road salt and de-icers can also be an irritant to your pet's paws. When they come indoors, use a damp cloth to wipe off their paws. This will help remove anything that can cause them discomfort, and help them avoid ingesting the chemicals.
7. The best tip of all...is keep your pets with you indoors, where they will have attention and be warm and safe. Happy pets are those who get supervised time outdoors for exercise and potty breaks, but get the chance to be inside the rest of the time. They rely on us to make sure they are safe.
If you see a pet in distress during the winter, you should contact your local animal shelter or police department to make a report. With your assistance these animals can be helped.
|Posted by tlhsny on July 31, 2010 at 5:15 PM||comments (0)|
It's important to keep an emergency dog first-aid kit on hand for when your canine buddy gets hurt. If you create a kit with the proper first-aid supplies you may be able to help your dog who has to be rushed to your veterinarian's clinic. Sometimes the right supplies can ward off an emergency altogether. Here are the first-aid materials that all dog owners should have in the house (and in your vehicle for your active outdoorsy dogs):
1. Gauze, sterile pads and "vet wrap" (a self-clinging elastic wrap). These items can be used to wrap a wound prior to transporting a pet to your veterinarian.
3. Styptic pencil or powder. This is used to stop nails from bleeding after being cut too short.
4. Tweezers or forceps. For removing splinters, ticks, etc.
5. Triple antibiotic ointment to prevent infection. You should only apply ointments to a wound as directed by your vet.
6. Antiseptic to help prevent infection in minor wounds.
7. Hydrocortisone cream. Reduces itching caused by insect bites and allergies.
8. Cold pack to reduce swelling.
9. Eyewash to rinse out dirt, and foreign objects that may get into your pet's eye.
10. Hydrogen Peroxide (10% strength). Peroxide can be used to induce vomiting in case of your dog being poisoned. Contact your vet or poison control center prior to giving your dog Peroxide and they will be able to tell you the proper dose. They will also be able to tell you whether it is safe to induce your dog to vomit, as sometimes it can cause the poisoning to worsen depending on the toxin they ingested.
11. Antiseptic wipes. Keep your hands clean, and also cleans cuts on dogs.
12. Alcohol prep pads. Use these to clean your tweezers, but NOT to be used directly on any type of wound.
13. Diphenhydramine. An antihistamine for allergic reactions to bee stings, bug bites, etc.
14. Muzzle. An injured or scared dog, even your own family pet, may bite when they are in pain. So it's better to be safe, than sorry.
15. Latex gloves.
16. Your dog's vaccination and dog license records. Too many people travel without their dog's rabies vaccination certificate and dog license. You should always keep copies in your first aid kit. If your dog runs away, proof of rabies vaccinations and dog licenses are usually is required to claim your dog back from animal shelters or dog pounds.
17. A list of your veterinarian clinic's numbers, as well as other emergency vet clinics in the area. This is especially important if you are traveling with your dog on vacation. Do your research and make sure you make note of vet clinics near where you will be staying, and your vet's number so you can contact them.
18. Your pet's prescribed medications and/or vitamins. In case of an emergency, you should always keep some of your pet's medications in the first-aid kit. So if you are forced to bring them to a vet, you will be prepared to provide them with the dog's necessary meds.
19. Flashlight. You never know when your dog may get injured, and if it's at night or during a storm that knocks out the power, you will definitely want to have a flashlight on hand to check your dog over.
20. When in doubt, call your vet! If you are not sure if your dog should go to your vet for treatment, it's better to call just in case. DO NOT attempt to treat your pet on your own unless you have consulted with a vet first, as you may cause more damage than good to your beloved dog.
|Posted by tlhsny on July 31, 2010 at 3:51 PM||comments (0)|
One of our adopters recently emailed us with a scary story about one of her adopted cats.
One day while she was out of the house, her cat "Sneezy" got entangled in the cord on one of her window blinds. He must have been playing with the cord, and got his leg through it and kept twisting and turning to try to get free. Luckily, he's a pretty laid back cat and finally just gave up the struggle and waited for help. When his owner came home she found him all tangled and was able to free him without any injuries. Had it been one of her more active cats, they may have kept twisting themselves until they cut off circulation to their leg and ended up hurting themselves more.
When you purchase those types of window blinds there are warnings to keep the cords safely out of the reach of children. Everyone should also consider the hazard they pose to cats and dogs in your home. If you have window blinds with long cords, you should cut them so they hang loosely and there isn't a way to have your pet get tangled up. Also, after cutting them it's best if you can move the cord up higher and wrap it so that it doesn't hang low enough for your pet to play with and risk the same situation that poor Sneezy dealt with.
Mom always said, "it's all fun and games until someone gets hurt." Sadly, Mom might be right.
|Posted by tlhsny on April 24, 2009 at 6:21 PM||comments (0)|
Attempting to find a rental apartment or house that allows pets can be very difficult. A lot of landlords have been burnt by irresponsible pet owners who have left their rentals damaged. However, due to the vacancy rates rising, many landlords are struggling to fill their rental units. They are more likely to say "yes" to a pet now more than ever.
Here are 10 tips to prove your case to a landlord, so you will be able to rent and keep your pet:
1. Be a good pet owner. Before you apply for an apartment or house, ask yourself some simple questions. Do you know how to keep your cat from spraying indoors? What will you do to keep your dog from barking and carrying on when you're not home? Contact your local animal shelter, veterinarian or local training club for information. There is also a wealth of information on the internet. It's your job to provide the proper care, training, attention and exercise for your pet.
2. Be sympathetic to the landlord's concerns. There may be many reasons as to why a landlord does not permit pets in their rental units. It is best to discuss them with the landlord and be understanding.
3. Narrow your search. If you are using an online apartment listing search, check off the box that says "dog" or "cat". This will help you find pet friendly apartments easier.
4. Ask the landlord anyway. Even if a rental listing states that certain pets are not allowed, some landlords will negotiate with you. They may get testy, but this will clue them in on the demand for people with pets in need of housing, and it could nudge them in the direction of allowing pets in the future. A great way to convince a potential landlord, is to set up a meeting with the pet. Encourage the landlord to bring a list of questions or concerns they have about your pet. Be prepared for the meeting, and have your pet under control and nicely groomed. If you prove yourself to be a responsible pet owner, the landlord will also consider you a responsible tenant.
5. Put together a resume for your pet. This shows the landlord that you are serious about renting, and that you have your act together. This is a great way to show just how responsible you are with your pet.
Include the following in your pet's resume:
- Veterinary documents. Make sure your pet is up-to-date on its shots. Having your pet spayed or neutered is also a plus, as this will help to eliminate a lot of behavioral issues.
- A description of your prevention plan for fleas, ticks, intestinal worms, etc.
- An explanation of what your pet does all day. Is he/she crated while you are gone, or left to roam freely? Does your pet get lonely? Do you have a dog walker that will be visiting to take your dog out? Do you provide your cat with toys, beds and scratching posts? Are you good about cleaning up spills and messes?
- Bring along any training class graduation certificates. If your dog has passed through a class or two, this will be a positive way to reassure the landlord that your dog knows the basics.
6. Bring references. Would you go to a job interview without a list of references? Make sure you get a note and contact number from your former landlords and neighbors. This can really help your landlord make their decision more favorable.
7. Offer to pay an extra deposit. Pet deposits are often required by landlords who allow pets. It helps if you can offer slightly more than what they require. Good landlords know that pet deposits, which are refundable, are the best incentive for renters to take extra good care of their rental property. If you can't pay the deposit all up front, offer to make payments.
8. Offer to buy renter's insurance. Many landlords are concerned with their liability, especially if your pet injures another tenant. If you have renter's insurance, the liability portion should cover injuries caused by your pet. Check with your insurer to find out what is covered under your policy.
9. Factor in long-term costs. Many smaller building owners don't impose non-refundable pet deposits (in some states they are illegal). They often shy away from additional pet rent, unless the tenant prefers that over an additional deposit. If the landlord plans to charge you per month for the privelege of having a pet in their rental unit, you will have to factor this into your budget. If you don't want to move within 5 years, a $50 per month pet rent totals $3,000 in 5 years. That's a lot of vet bills!
10. Be a good representative for pet-owners. Don't give wary landlords any reason to complain or not trust pet owners because of damages or messes you left behind after moving out with your pet. Clean up really well before you leave, and this will show the landlord that not all pet owners are irresponsible. Pet owners can be the best tenants to rent to.
|Posted by tlhsny on April 21, 2009 at 5:48 PM||comments (0)|
Rabies is a deadly disease, and continues to be a problem in many parts of the United States. Rabies virus attacks the nervous system of mammals (warmblooded animals who nurse their young). This means pets, livestock, wildlife and humans are at risk. Rabies is spread mainly through bites from infected animals, but can also be passed by scratches from an infected animal, or if saliva or brain tissue comes in contact with open wounds, skin breaks, or mucous membranes (eyes, nose, mouth, etc). Rabies is fatal once the virus reaches the brain.
Domestic animals, such as dogs, cats, ferrets and farm animals can pick up rabies from wild or stray animals. The most commonly affected wild animals include raccoons, skunks, coyotes, foxes and bats. Stray dogs, cats and ferrets can also pose a problem, as they could have come in contact with wildlife, and may have possibly been exposed to rabies.
How to protect yourself and your family:
1. Avoid contact with ALL wild animals. NEVER attempt to feed or handle any wild animal. Do not "adopt" wild animals as pets.
2.Stay away from stray animals. They may not have been properly vaccinated. If you notice a stray, report it to your local Animal Control or Dog Control Officer.
3. Keep wild animals out of your home. Secure your doors and windows, cap off your chimney with a screen, and close off any other openings in your porch, basement or attic. If you find a wild animal in your house, call your local police to report it.
4. Secure your trash, and any other food items that are stored outdoors. This will keep animals from frequently trying to hang around your home.
How to keep your pets safe:
1. Make sure your pets are always vaccinated against rabies. Dogs, cats, ferrets and select livestock can receive rabies vaccinations and boosters. Contact your local animal shelter to ask about free, or low-cost rabies clinics in your area. Otherwise, consult with your veterinarian about making sure your pet is up-to-date on their vaccinations.
2. Keep your pets safe by keeping them on your property. Pets that are allowed to roam are more likely to be at risk of contracting rabies from other animals.
3. Do not feed your pets outdoors. Any leftover food, or scraps, may attract stray animals and wildlife.
Symptoms of Rabies Virus:
A change in behavior is the most consistent sign of an animal that has been exposed to rabies. Signs of rabies include:
- Abnormal daytime activity in animals that are active at night (bats, raccoons, skunks, etc).
- Staggering (appears to act "drunk").
- Weakness and paralysis.
- A change in the sound of the animal's "voice".
- Inability to eat or drink.
- Convulsions and frothing at the mouth.
The two most common forms of rabies:
Dumb Rabies, in which the animal may hide, become shy, or become unusually approachable. These behaviors may be followed by sluggishness, confusion and depression.
Furious Rabies, is when the exposed animal becomes irritable, excitable and aggressive. At times, these animals seem confused and calm, and then suddenly attack when approached. These animals may also lose all fear and caution for natural enemies.
With each form of rabies, the animal will eventually suffer from paralysis, coma and death.
What should you do if you believe your pet has been bitten or attacked by another animal?
1. Contact your local or state health department right away to report the bite.
2. Contact your local Animal Control or Dog Control Officer to report any information you can about the animal that attacked your pet. If the animal is still at large, the officer will need to capture it for a quarantine period.
3. If the animal is wild, you may need to contact the Department of Environmental Conservation to handle wildlife.
3. Contact your veterinarian to make sure your pet is up-to-date on its rabies vaccination.
What should you do if you, or a family member, has been bitten or attacked by an animal?
1. Wash the wound thoroughly with warm, soapy water.
2. If the animal that attacked you is wild, only attempt to confine it if it is safe to do so. Call Animal Control IMMEDIATELY. If you must kill the animal, do it as a last resort and try not to damage the skull of the animal (the animal's brain tissue may need to be tested for rabies).
3. If the animal is someone's pet, get the owner's information and ask for proof of a current rabies vaccination.
4. Contact your family physician or Emergency Room, to determine if you will need rabies shots.
5. Report the bite to your local or state Health Department.
6. Report the bite to your local ACO or DCO. Dogs, cats or ferrets that have bitten someone must be confined for observation. In New York State, there is a 10day rabies quarantine period for animals that have bitten a human. If the animal is not current on its rabies vaccination, this quarantine must be done at a veterinary clinic or animal shelter.
7. If the animal is wild, you may need to contact the Department of Environmental Conservation to handle wildlife.
For more information about rabies, contact your local veterinarian, animal shelter, department of environmental conservation, or local/state health departments.
|Posted by tlhsny on April 12, 2009 at 10:51 PM||comments (1)|
It's once again Spring, and the Tri-Lakes Humane Society is beginning to receive phone calls in regards to dogs running loose, chasing people and cars.
If your dog is prone to chasing after cars, bicyclists, pedestrians, children or other animals, you should take the situation very seriously. Dogs have a natural "prey" drive, and that is why they love to chase after vehicles, people or other animals. Some dogs are merely trying to get the person or animal to "play" with them by chasing, jumping, barking, etc.
However, a dog's "prey" drive can also lead to "hunting", and this is where the behavior can become very serious. Some dogs will actually hunt down a person or animal with the intention of attacking in an aggressive manner. Certain breeds have a higher tendency to chase and kill prey (sporting, herding, hounds and terriers). However any breed, even mixed breeds, can have a strong prey drive.
When a dog is searching and stalking their prey, with the intention of chasing and killing their "prey", this is a very dangerous behavior. It is referred to as predatory aggression, and it is a natural reaction to movement. The scariest part of predatory aggression, is that there are very few warnings signs. The dog will sometimes run up to their victim, while other times the dog moves slowly, until it is close enough to attack. An attack can be nipping at the heels of person or other animal, or it can be a full on bite in an attempt to hang on and drag the person or animal to the ground. These types of attacks can lead to severe injuries or even death.
If your dog has shown strong predatory aggression, you should NEVER allow your dog to run loose off of your own property. This is not only for your and your dog's safety, but for the public's safety as well. If your dog is loose, and is caught chasing cars, bicyclists, or people, you can be charged with a violation of your local dog control ordinance. Additionally, if your dog attacks someone while it is loose, you could be facing a Dangerous Dog Complaint, in which you will have to appear at a hearing where your municipal justice will decide whether or not your dog is dangerous. If your dog is found to be dangerous, the judge will then issue court orders, which could include permanent confinement, or euthanasia.
The best way to avoid owning a dog with predatory aggression, is to properly socialize and train your dog. One great way is to enroll in a beginner's dog class with your dog, as this will help with both socialization with people and other dogs. Contact your local animal shelter to find out if there are dog training classes available in your area. A properly trained and socialized dog will be less likely to engage in aggressive behavior. Always walk your dog on a leash, as this is the best way to control your dog. If your dog runs off of your property on a regular basis, install a fence to contain your dog. If you can prevent your dog from getting loose, you will erase the chances of future problems from taking place.
- Lena Bombard
TLHS Manager/Dog Control Officer
|Posted by tlhsny on April 8, 2009 at 3:12 PM||comments (0)|
9 Myths About Rabbits
In honor of Easter, we are hoping to offer up some useful information about rabbits. There are a lot of misconceptions about rabbits out there, and that is why a lot of rabbits end up in animal shelters. Here are some of the common myths that we have heard about rabbits.
Myth #1 : Rabbits are low maintenance pets.
The truth is that rabbits are anything but low maintenance, and that is why a lot of people turn them into animal shelters. When they realize they were not prepared for the care and cost of owning a pet rabbit, sometimes they think it is easier to just give them away. Rabbits require regular cage cleaning, fresh food/hay and water daily, including fresh veggies and fruits. There are also times when veterinary care may be required for health issues. You may not have to take your rabbit for a walk like a dog, but don't be fooled, they do require a lot of care.
Myth #2 : Rabbits only live a couple years at the most, so I won't have to commit a long time to caring for one.
The reality is that most well cared for indoor rabbits can live 7-10 years, and sometimes into their teens. That's the same life expectancy for many breeds of dogs. If you can't commit to caring for a rabbit for its entire life, then you probably shouldn't be adopting a rabbit.
Myth # 3 : Rabbits don't need veterinary care like dogs and cats.
They may not require annual vaccinations, but they should visit a vet at least once a year. Regular checkups with a vet is a good idea to help detect any problems or health issues early on before they become major. Rabbits can also be spayed or neutered, which will help to improve both behavior and health.
Myth #4 : Rabbits are happier outside in a hutch.
The truth is rabbits that are placed outdoors in a hutch are often forgotten and neglected once the novelty of having a rabbit has worn off. Outdoor rabbits end up living life in solitary confinement. They are also more prone to health issues due to extreme weather conditions, fleas/ticks, flies and mosquitoes. They are very sensitive to heat, and can suffer heat stroke easily in the summer months. Predatory animals can also attack their hutch. The stress alone from having their hutch attacked by a dog could be enough to kill a rabbit.
To make your rabbit happy and safe...keep them indoors.
Myth #5 : Rabbits are dirty and smelly.
Rabbits happen to be very clean animals, and they wash themselves regularly. They can be littertrained to cut down on the amount of mess you have to clean up. Regular cage cleaning will eliminate odor problems. Also, having your rabbit spayed or neutered will help your rabbit not want to soil in their cages as much.
Myth #6 : Rabbits love to be picked up and cuddled, and rarely scratch or bite.
Some rabbits tolerate being picked up and cuddled, but others that have been mishandled, or are adjusting to being handled, may react negatively to being picked up and carried around. Their reactions can include squirming, kicking or nipping. The best way to get a rabbit used to being handled, is to be gentle and patient. If you remain calm, so will the rabbit. You must be gentle and careful because rabbits have very fragile spines, and if they begin to kick and thrash too severely, they can injure themselves. It may take time to get a rabbit used to being held, but if you put in the effort, you will end up with a friendly bunny.
Myth #7 : Rabbits, especially Dwarf breeds, don't need much space.
Rabbits are usually pretty active, and they use their strong hind legs to run and jump around. They need regular exercise outside of their cage to be able to stretch their legs. A cage should give a rabbit enough room to hop at least twice, and a shelf provides an extra perch for jumping up onto. Dwarf rabbits are at times even more active than other breeds, and may require even more space to move about.
Myth # 8 : Rabbits can be left alone for days at a time.
This is not a good idea EVER. Rabbits need daily monitoring, because problems like not eating or drinking can lead to life threatening problems if left untreated. If you are going out of town, it is best to find someone to check in on your rabbit everyday to make sure nothing is wrong and to provide fresh food and water.
Myth #9: Rabbits only need rabbit pellet food and carrots.
One of the biggest mistakes new rabbit owners make is not providing their rabbit with a proper diet. Rabbits need to have grass hay provided every day. Hay aids rabbits with digestion and they love it. Pellet food should be used on a limited basis. Fresh veggies like romaine lettuce, broccoli, carrots, and fruits like apples (remove seeds), are great for rabbits. Apple branches are also a good chew treat for rabbits, and it also gives them something to chew on and keep their teeth from growing too quickly. Rabbits can be picky about what they like to eat, so you may need to try different foods to find what yours will like best.
For more information on rabbit care and behavior, check out the House Rabbit Society website.
To see what Rabbits we have available for adoption, click here
|Posted by tlhsny on April 8, 2009 at 2:59 PM||comments (0)|
The ASPCA has put together an informative video that discusses the 17 common plants that are poisonous to pets. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center had over 140,000 cases of pets being exposed to poisons in 2008.
If you believe your pet has ingested something poisonous, please contact your veterinarian immediately! You can also call the ASPCA Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
Follow this link to the video on poisonous plants: